joellebohringerIf you want to plan an trip to see the Aral Sea in Uzbekistan but have no where to start, this article is for you.
The Aral Sea was once one 4th largest freshwater lakes in the world. It was once a bustling center for fishing and commerce. Today, the Aral Sea is roughly 10% of its original size, and it is essentially gone. It is a disaster unlike any other in the world; a sea suddenly became a desert. Even today, you can see the rapid degradation of the area, as fishing boats are still stuck in the sand, as if the water beneath them simply evaporated.
How does a Sea Disappear? – The History of the Aral Sea
The Aral Sea, once one of the largest inland bodies of water in the world, stands as a haunting symbol of environmental devastation. Nestled between Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan in Central Asia, this once-thriving oasis supported vibrant ecosystems and sustained livelihoods for countless communities for millennia. However, over the past century, human activity has led to its dramatic decline, leaving behind a stark reminder of the perils of unchecked exploitation.
The story of the Aral Sea’s demise dates back to the early 20th century when ambitious irrigation projects were initiated by the Soviet Union to transform the arid landscapes of Central Asia into productive farmland. The two major rivers that fed the Aral Sea, the Amu Darya and the Syr Darya, were diverted to irrigate vast cotton fields and other crops in the region. While these projects initially brought economic prosperity to the area, they also set in motion a chain of events that would ultimately lead to ecological catastrophe.
As the rivers were diverted for agriculture, the water flowing into the Aral Sea began to dwindle, causing its water levels to drop at an alarming rate. By the 1960s, the sea had already begun to shrink, and by the 1980s, it had split into separate, increasingly saline bodies of water. The once-thriving fishing industry collapsed as fish populations declined, and the exposed seabed became a breeding ground for toxic dust storms laden with pesticides and industrial pollutants.
The consequences of the Aral Sea’s desiccation reverberated far beyond its shores. The local climate became more extreme, with hotter summers and colder winters, exacerbating agricultural challenges in the region. Dust storms carried toxic particles over vast distances, posing serious health risks to nearby communities and even reaching as far as the Himalayas.
Moynaq- The Aral Sea Ship Graveyard
The main entry point to the Aral Sea is the once-thriving port city of Moynaq.
How to get to Moynaq, The Gateway to the Aral Sea
The easiest ways to get to Moynaq are from the cities of Nukus or Khiva. You can get to both Nukus via train from Bukhara or Samarkand. However, there are no direct trains from Khiva to Nukus, a must-see city in Uzbekistan, so I highly reccomend travelling from Khiva.
I highly reccomend travelling from Khiva, as it allows you to see more on the way.
By Private Taxi
The easiest way to reach the Aral Sea is by-far via organizing a private transport. While some private transfers are available online, it is much cheaper to organize via a guesthouse in Khiva.
Our incredible hosts in Khiva at Guest House Orzu arranged an incredible day trip for us to visit numerous sites in the north of Uzbekistan including the Aral Sea.
The tour was 16 hours and included a private driver. It costs $98 for the entire private tour, and I cannot recommend it enough!
Travelling by private taxi makes for a very long day, and it can be quite expensive if you are travelling alone. However, it also allows you to see significantly more sites than if you were travelling via public transport, including many sites that are difficult to reach independently.
Overall, I feel that one day is more than enough at the Aral Sea, as the area near Moynaq is quite underdeveloped and has few loding or dining options.
By Public Transport
Travelling by public transport takes time, patience, and flexibility in Uzbekistan. If you want to travel slowly, you can get to Moynaq via shared taxis and minibuses.
The route to get from Khiva to Moynaq via public transport is Khiva-> Urgench->Nukus->Moynaq.
From Khiva
If you are travelling from Khiva, you will want to start your morning very early. You’ll want to arrive at the North Gate to Khiva City around 7am. From there, you should find many mini buses going to the city of Urgench. The price for a seat on a shared minibus is about 5,000 SOM ($0.39).
From Urgench
In Urgench, minibuses leave from the Avtovokzal bus station to the city of Nukus. In case your mini bus drops you off outside of the Avtovokzal, ask the bus driver to drop you off near the station. From there, hail another cab to take you to the Avtovokzal. A taxi within the city of Urgench to the bus station should cost around 10,000 SOM ($0.78). Once you get to the Avtovokzal, ask locals for the bus to Nukus. Many travellers report that they leave at 9am sharp, and the price should be about 25,000 SOM. ($1.97).
From Nukus
The minibus in Nukus will drop you at the Nukus shopping center around 12pm. From there, you need to get to a bus station called Avtovokzal Saransha. Yandex Go, Uzbekistan’s best Uber-like service, works in Nukus. You can call a Yandex to take you from the shopping center to Avtovokzal Saransha. The taxi should cost 10,000-20,000 SOM from the shopping center to the bus stop.
From Avtovokzal Saransha, busses leave from Nukus to Moynaq at 9am and 1pm. You’ll take the 1pm bus. The cost for the bus from Nukus to Moynaq is 20,000 Uzbek Som per person ($1.50). You will reach Moynaq around 4:30 pm, and you will have to spend the night.
Returning from Moynaq
The next day, buses return to Nukus at 9am and 3pm from the same location that the bus from Nukus dropped passengers. Once you return to Nukus, you can take a train back to Samarkand or Bukhara from the train station.
Read: The complete guide to travelling by train in Uzbekistan
Overall, it is important to note that this public transportation information is not 100% reliable. Travelling by public transport in Uzbekistan take patience, as timings and bus schedules can change without warning.
Things to See in Moynaq at the Aral Sea
Ship Cemetery
The ship cemetery is the main attraction in Moynaq. Here, there are around 10 ships left abandoned in the desert. It is free to enter, and you can explore and even climb on all of the ships.
Moynaq Museum
There is a small museum attached to the ship cemetery. It costs 30,000 SOM to enter. Overall, it is not a super engaging museum, but it gives you a good idea of the way in which the area changed as a result of the rapid degradation of the Aral Sea.
Additional Sites to See Near the Aral Sea
Chipik Tower of Silence
Between Khiva and Nukus, there is an ancient Chilpyk Tower of Silence. The Chilpyk Tower of Silence was built over 2200 years ago as part of the Zoroastrian Religion. According to Zoroastrian belief, human bodies could taint the earth, so they placed their deceased on the tower’s summit for vultures to consume. Though this tradition ended in Uzbekistan with the rise of Islam in Central Asia, the tower still stands, and is absolutely fascinating to explore.
This is a great stop while on your way to Moynaq.
Mizdakhan Necropolis
Another site outside of Nukus is the Mizdakhan Necropolis. Mizdakhan is a giant cemetery that has been a resting place for the dead since the 4th century BC.This sprawling necropolis compound offers an extensive array of burial sites, encompassing Zoroastrian, Christian, and Muslim traditions, all nestled along the same hillside. According to local lore, it’s believed to be the final resting place of Adam, the first human. Even today, many locals express a desire to be laid to rest within the Necropolis, perpetuating its historical and cultural significance.
Nukus
Nukus serves as the capital of Karakalpakstan, an autonomous region within Uzbekistan inhabited by the Karakalpak ethnic group. With their distinct culture and language, many Karakalpak people aspire for independence from Uzbekistan.
Nukus stands apart from other Uzbek cities, boasting the renowned Nukus Art Museum. This museum houses the world’s second-largest collection of Russian avant-garde artwork. While avant-garde art might not be everyone’s cup of tea, the museum is definitely worth a visit, offering a unique cultural experience.
Is it safe to Visit the Aral Sea?
The devastation of the Aral Sea has led to considerable health implications. Increased rates of cancers and birth defects from the desertification of the sea have been noted in areas around Moynaq. However, these largely only affect those who are born and raised in the area. For visitors, a short trip to this area shouldn’t pose significant health consequences.
In terms of personal safety, the area of Moynaq is relatively safe with very friendly people. However, the region is fairly impoverished, as as with travels to anywhere, it is best to avoid conspicuous displays of wealth.
Is it Worth Visiting the Aral Sea?
Overall, a trip to Moynaq and the Aral Sea may be a bit underwhelming for some. There is not a lot to do in Moynaq, and it is a very long trip for 1-2 hours of sightseeing. However, it is still a bucket-list destination for many, myself included.
Overall, I reccomend visiting Moynaq and the Aral Sea, but only on a day trip.
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